Friday, February 4, 2011

Repair Walls to Give Rooms A Fresh Face

Sooner or later you’ll repair walls that make rooms look worn out. Erasing dings, dents, and scuffs is an easy fix. We’ll show you how.
Repair walls filled with dents, dings, and scuffs, and you’ll make rooms look young and fresh and maintain the value of your home. Fortunately, repairing walls is a good weekend warrior project. Here’s how to fix your home’s face in a hurry.

Patch drywall to smooth walls

A putty knife, Spackle, or joint compound can repair wall damage that ages a room.

Dents and dings: A quart of Spackle ($11) and a putty knife can fill dozens of small wall indentations. Spackle adheres to painted walls better than joint compound, though it takes a bit longer to dry. Cut wall repair time by thoroughly wiping away excess Spackle.

Fist-sized holes: Joint compound is your best bet when covering the mesh or drywall patches that cover big holes. You’ll need at least two thin coats of compound and fine grit sandpaper to blend repairs into the rest of the wall.

Nail pops: Nail pops travel in packs: Rarely do you see just one. To repair walls pocked with pops, hammer the popped nail back into the wall or pull it out with a needle-nose pliers; refasten the drywall to the nearest stud with a couple of screws, then fill dents with two or three coats of joint compound. Sand until smooth and flush with the rest of the wall, then repaint.

Remove marks for a clean start

Microfiber cloths are little miracles that erase the evidence of a childhood well spent, drawing on and caroming off walls. To get rid of scuff marks and fingerprints:
  • Spray an all-purpose cleaner onto the cloth (never directly onto walls to avoid drips) and swipe the scuff. (Test a hidden spot to make sure the cleaner doesn’t take off paint with the mark.)
  • Pour a little dish soap onto a damp cloth and wipe the mark.
  • Dip a sponge into an earth-friendly and slightly abrasive paste of dish soap, baking soda, and water, and gently scrub grime.
  • To repair walls decorated with crayon marks, dab toothpaste onto a towel or toothbrush and scrub marks.
  • Use Mr. Clean Magic Eraser ($3), the best instant wall cleaner around. Wet and wring the eraser before attacking scuffs.

Touch up what you can’t wipe out

Prepare for inevitable touch-ups by keeping leftover paint or at least recording the paint number and/or formula (paint names change). Don’t have the original? Scrape off a little and ask your paint store to match it.

For touch-ups, use the same type of brush or roller the original painter used. Feather the paint from the outside borders in.

If touch-ups stand out, paint the entire wall, making sure to paint corner to corner and avoid splatters onto the ceiling and adjacent walls.

Jane Hoback is a veteran writer whose work has appeared in the Rocky Mountain News, Natural Foods Merchandiser magazine, and ColoradoBIZ Magazine.


Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/articles/repair-walls-give-rooms-fresh-face/#ixzz1D0M0zUbm

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Passive Roof Vents: Helping Your House Breathe Easy

Passive roof vents expel excess heat and moisture. The key is to balance incoming air with outgoing, and perform an annual maintenance checkup.
Added to Binder
Passive roof vents encourage natural air flow and work without the aid of motorized fans. Roof vents enhance the overall comfort of the house by providing escape hatches for hot, stale, moist air, which can reach temperatures of 150 degrees in summer.
In winter, you need to dump that hot air before it condenses, which can lead to rot and mold. Warm air trapped in the attic during winter also may cause rapid melting of snow, which then refreezes as ice dams—mini glaciers that can push up shingles and peel off gutters and soffits.

How much roof ventilation?

The rule of thumb for proper attic ventilation calls for a minimum of 1 square foot of vent area (openings) for every 300 square feet of attic floor space. If you have asphalt shingles, you must have some kind of attic ventilation or you’ll risk voiding the warranty.

Check your roof vents

You or a professional roofer should check your roof vents annually.
  • Periodically clear vent screens of dirt, leaves, dust, pollen, spider webs, bird nests, and other debris that impedes air flow.
  • Repair screen rips or tears and damaged flashing.
  • Check for rust or rot around the framing or flashing.
  • Clear insulation from soffit vent openings. You’ll need to inspect from inside your attic. Make sure attic insulation stops clear of the under-eave area.
If you’re having problems with ice dams, mold, and damaged shingles, have a ventilation or roofing professional evaluate whether you have adequate ventilation and need to retrofit exhaust or intake vents.

Roof vent options

  • Ridge vents run along the peak of the roof. They feature an external baffle to increase air flow and protect your house from snow, rain, and dust. They’re usually capped with a material that blends in with the roof. It costs about $245 for a professional to install a 40-foot ridge vent
  • Static vents have no moving parts. They’re basically protected holes in the roof that allow air circulation. They come in various designs—roofline, dormer, roof louver, or eyebrow vents—and are installed in an even line across the roof. Some pros swear by them; others think they tend to leak. They cost between $35 and $50 per vent to install.
  • Gable vents, or wall louvers, are placed in the gable ends of the attic and can be used in combination with other vents. The higher they are, the more effective. However, the airflow from gable vents is limited because they’re under the roof deck, resulting in hot spots. Professional installation costs about $185 per vent. Or, buy a set yourself and install them for $45 apiece.
  • Wind turbines are mushroom-shaped caps atop roofs designed to catch natural wind currents, which spins an internal fan and propels hot air out of the attic. Wind turbines are most effective in areas where winds average about 5 mph.
For areas with little wind, a power-assisted vent is an option.

Soffit vents provide a breath of fresh air

Getting rid of hot air is just part of the equation. You also need intake vents, which are usually soffit (or under-eave) vents. Made of aluminum or vinyl, they contain tiny perforations or slits for airflow, and are available as either narrow strips that butt together, or as smaller, wider vents that fit between roof joists.

Soffit vents are most effective when used with a ridge vent. Most new houses have soffit vents, and they can be retrofitted on old ones. If you have only small gable or roof vents, putting in soffit vents will increase airflow.

Laura Fisher Kaiser is a contributing editor at Interior Design magazine, a former editor of This Old House, and writes the blog Secret Science Geek. She lives in Washington, DC.


Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/articles/passive-roof-vents-helping-your-house-breathe-easy/#ixzz1Cu6SIMWG

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Ceiling Fans: Know the Spin Before You Install

By: Laura Fisher Kaiser
Published: January 28, 2011
Proper placement and installation of your ceiling fan is important for efficiency and safety.
  • Ceiling fans should be installed so they hang no less than 7 feet above the floor, and no closer than 18 inches from the walls. Image: Fanimation.com
Installing a ceiling fan is fairly simple, especially if there is an existing light fixture. Once you've figured out where to put the fan, make sure you've got the right electrical requirements.
The right height and position for a ceiling fan
For greatest efficiency, place your fan:
  • In the middle of your room.
  • 8 to 9 feet above the floor (and, for safety, no less than 7 feet above the floor).
  • So that the ends of the blades are no closer than 18 inches from walls.
The lowdown on downrods
A standard downrod (the shaft that connects the motor to the blades) for an 8-foot ceiling is 3 to 5 inches long. You'll need a 6-inch downrod for 9-foot-high ceilings; 60 inches for an 18-foot-high ceiling. Consult a showroom or manufacturer's website on the correct downrod length for your ceiling height.
The lowdown on low ceilings
For ceilings lower than 8 feet, use a flush-mount fan designed with special vents to cool the motor. These fans have a depth of only 6 to 9 inches. However, they generally don't include a light fixture because of their short depth.  
Electricity and support for your ceiling fan
For a virgin ceiling, an electrician will have to bring electricity to that spot, install an electrical box, and a wall switch. Depending on the extent of this work and whether the electrician has to punch holes in your walls and ceiling to thread the wire, you might have some patching and painting to do. Expect to pay a licensed electrician for 2 to 4 hours of work at $50 to $100 per hour.

For safety, your ceiling fan must be supported by a special bracket that's firmly anchored to the joists. These brackets typically are sold separately from your fan for $35 to $50.
Staying in control
Many models feature a traditional pull-chain to control the power and speed, or are operated by a wall switch with a variable speed control. Switches range from simple knob types ($12) to dual fan-light dimmer switches ($25 to $38). Other models include remote control "clickers" that operate the fan from any point in the room.

Most fans are reversible, allowing the blades to push air directly down beneath the fan, or upwards to create a circulation pattern that flows down along walls. Conventional wisdom says the fan should push air directly down in summer for maximum wind chill effect, and that the pattern should be reversed in winter.

However, research from Consumer Reports suggests that reversing fan rotation according to the seasons is unnecessary.

Quote of the day:

 A signature always reveals a man's character - and sometimes even his name.
by Evan Esar

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Replace Old Windows with Energy-Efficient Models



Adding new energy-efficient windows can pay off at resale, as well as boost your energy savings—$126-$465 annually—if you choose the right ones.
If your windows are more than 15 years old, you may be putting up with draftiness, windows that stick in their frames, and skyrocketing energy bills. Energy-efficient windows would be a great improvement, but replacement can be very expensive. In a 2007 survey conducted by Consumer Reports, half of respondents spent $8,000 or more to replace all the windows in their homes, and 16% shelled out $15,000+.

Windows recoup much of their cost

The range for energy-efficient window pricing is wide, but Energy Star-qualified windows start around $120 for a 36” x 72” single-hung window and can go up 10 times that. With labor, you’re looking at about $270 to $800+ per window. Typically, windows at the low end of the price spectrum are less energy efficient.
But that doesn’t mean the numbers can’t make sense for you. For starters, window replacement is one of the best home remodeling projects in terms of investment return: For vinyl windows, you can recoup almost 72% of the project cost in added home value, according to Remodeling Magazine’s annual Cost vs. Value Report.
Based on the replacement projects outlined in Cost vs. Value that use vinyl windows, that’s a value add of about $8,000 to $10,400. Plus, if you choose windows that qualify for the federal tax credit (U-factor and solar heat gain coefficient ratings must be 0.3 or less), you can effectively lop $1,500 off the purchase price for windows put into service in 2009 or 2010.
You’re also likely to see modest savings on your energy bill. In general, you’ll save $126 to $465 a year if single-pane windows in a 2,000-square-foot house are replaced with tax-credit-eligible windows, according to the Efficient Windows Collaborative, a coalition of government agencies, research organizations, and manufacturers that promotes efficient window technology.
Keep in mind, though, that the savings can vary widely by climate, local energy costs, and the energy efficiency of both the windows purchased and the windows being replaced. Finally, you may qualify for low-interest loans or other incentives offered by your local utility that can sweeten the deal.

Sample costs, incentives

Here’s a hypothetical situation to help frame your purchase decision:
Location: Minneapolis, Minn.
Old windows: Double-pane, non-Energy Star windows
New windows: Energy Star-qualified, tax credit-qualified vinyl windows
Purchase price plus installation: $10,500
Subtract tax credit: -$1,500
Subtract local utility rebate for installing Energy Star replacement windows (12 windows, $25 each): -$300
Net price: $8,700
The Minneapolis home owner could recoup about 69% of the project cost at resale, according to estimates in Cost vs. Value. From a net price of $8,700, the owner has “lost” only $1,350.
And his annual energy savings will be $91. Had the original windows been single-paned non-Energy Star, his annual savings would be $385. Double-paned windows are more common.

Evaluate price vs. energy efficiency

The range for energy-efficient window pricing is wide, but you can expect to pay about $500-$1,000, including installation per window. The most efficient windows on the market are usually the most expensive, but it’s not necessary to buy the highest-end products to realize utility bill savings or improve comfort and aesthetics. So how do you choose the most energy-efficient models for the price?
Thanks to Energy Star, you really don’t have to, according to Nils Petermann, project manager for the Efficient Windows Collaborative. Energy Star labels will tell you whether a window performs well in your climate based on ratings from the National Fenestration Rating Council.
However, if you’re looking for windows that qualify for the $1,500 federal tax credit, make sure the U-factor and SHGC are both less than or equal to 0.3 regardless of climate zone. Not all Energy Star windows qualify.

Know the language of windows

It’s also helpful to familiarize yourself with terms that appear on many window labels:
Glazing is simply the glass used in the window. The number of layers of glazing (single, double, or triple) don’t necessarily equal greater efficiency; the presence or absence of the other items in this list affects a window’s total energy performance, says Petermann. Glazing coatings can substantially affect a window’s U-factor, or degree of insulation against the outdoors.
Low-E stands for low emissivity, the window’s ability to reflect rather than absorb heat when coated with a thin metallic substance. Low-E coatings add up to 10% to the price of a window.

If your windows are in relatively good shape but you’d like better insulation, you can buy and apply Low-E films to your windows. They’re effective, but not as much as those put between glazing layers during manufacture. Look for the NFRC rating on these films, Petermann says. Low-E films start at about 50 cents per square foot, but you may want to check into the cost of having them professionally installed for large or complicated applications.
Gas fills typically consist of argon or krypton gas sandwiched between glazing layers to improve insulation and slow heat transfer. They often won’t work at high altitudes because differences in air pressure cause them to leak out.
Spacers separate sheets of glass in a window to improve insulating quality; the design and material are important to prevent condensation and heat loss.
Frame materials include vinyl, wood, aluminum, fiberglass, and combinations of. They each have different strengths: Vinyl windows are good insulators and are easy to maintain, but contract and expand with temperature changes, affecting the window’s air leakage; wood offers a classic look but is similarly affected by moisture changes and needs regular maintenance; fiberglass is very stable and low-maintenance but can be expensive; and aluminum is lightweight, stable, and a good sound proofer but is a rapid conductor of heat, making it a drain on energy efficiency.
Karin Beuerlein has covered home improvement and green living topics extensively for HGTV.com, FineLiving.com, and FrontDoor.com. She has also written for dozens of national and regional publications in more than a decade of freelancing, including Better Homes & Gardens, The History Channel Magazine, Eating Well, and Chicago Tribune. She and her husband started married life by remodeling the house they were living in. They still have both the marriage and the house, no small feat.


Read more: http://www.houselogic.com/articles/replace-old-windows-with-energy-efficient-models/#ixzz1CiYOgIMc